Johannesburg can seem overwhelming to the first-time visitor. With a relatively flat natural landscape and few natural landmarks, the city's suburbs and townships stretch as far as the eye can see. Most international visitors stick to the city's affluent northern suburbs, home to gleaming shopping malls, international hotel chains and the head offices of the country's leading economic players.

The northern suburbs, en masse, can appear as an endless sprawl of little more than tree-lined streets, high walls and satellite dishes. In reality, the north is a series of little villages, each defined by its high street and a distinct personality. Norwood's Grant Avenue is a six-block strip lined with restaurants run and frequented by the city's Jewish and Italian-descended residents. Parkhurst's Fourth Avenue is a dining-and-decor street, favoured by the city's decorators and beau monde. The high streets of Greenside (Greenway for foodies), Melville (Seventh Avenue for students), Parkview (Tyrone Avenue for genteel young families and pensioners) and Cyrildene (Derrick Avenue, home to Jozi's burgeoning Chinese community): each has its own distinct atmosphere and attractions.

The most important thing to know? Jo'burg is Africa's most dynamic city; things literally change by the minute. The city has been completely rebuilt four times in just over a century. When an area goes 'down', the descent is rapid. So, for the time being, avoid any prior (pre-1999) suggestions to hit Rockey Street in Yeoville, often described as 'Jo'burg's Greenwich Village' - most of the bars, restaurants and clubs closed following a seemingly overnight influx of economic refugees from other parts of Africa. Likewise, Johannesburg's city centre has been 'off limits' for the past decade but at the time of going to press, private redevelopment companies are buying historic office buildings in the city's financial district and redeveloping them into exclusive apartment blocks. Yuppie response has been enthusiastic, and many of the apartment buildings were sold out within days. It's often said that five-year development spans in Jo'burg are equal to fifty years in other cities. Best bet? Check out the official Johannesburg website (www.joburg.org.za), run by the city council, as it's objective, well-designed, easy to use and updated daily. It's packed with the latest tourist and cultural information, development news, along with historical background and interactive reader commentary.